An exceptional ascent of Yerupajá in Peru will receive one of the highest awards in international mountaineering in 2026. Bru Busom, Rubén Sanmartín, and Marc Toralles will be honored with a Piolet d’Or for their new route on the 6,634-meter high mountain.
In August 2025, the three Spanish alpinists completed the first full ascent of the East Spur and East Ridge of Yerupajá. Their route is named "The Essence of Commitment." After reaching the main summit, they continued their traverse to Yerupajá Sur and descended via the southeast face.
New Route on Yerupajá
Yerupajá is located in the Cordillera Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes. At 6,634 meters, it is the highest peak in this range and the second-highest independent peak in Peru.
Busom, Sanmartín, and Toralles chose the challenging east face for their ascent. The new route, "The Essence of Commitment," is approximately 1,400 meters long. The difficulties are rated at 6c+, M6+, and ice pitches up to 95 degrees.
The entire undertaking lasted from August 4 to 8, 2025. Before the actual ascent, the team acclimatized in the Cordillera Blanca. Subsequently, the climbers established their base camp at an altitude of approximately 4,900 meters.
From the Main Summit to Yerupajá Sur
After reaching the 6,634-meter main summit, the tour was not yet over. The three alpinists continued along the exposed ridge towards Yerupajá Sur.
Approximately 600 meters of ridge separated the two summits. The descent then followed via the southeast face. This section is about 1,000 meters long and has an average gradient of around 65 degrees.
Thus, Busom, Sanmartín, and Toralles achieved the first known complete traverse of Yerupajá from the east.
Piolet d’Or for the Ascent in Peru
The Piolet d’Or is one of the most important international awards in mountaineering. It recognizes exceptional ascents and new routes. Technical difficulty, style, independence, and dealing with mountain conditions play an important role.
The jury honored the Yerupajá route as one of the outstanding mountaineering achievements of 2025.
Cordillera Huayhuash in Focus
The award draws international attention to the Cordillera Huayhuash. The mountain range is located in the central Peruvian Andes and extends over parts of Ancash, Huánuco, and Lima.
Besides Yerupajá, Siula Grande, Jirishanca, and Sarapo are among its well-known peaks. Many areas of the mountain range are remote and pose great challenges even for experienced mountaineers. The region is also popular with trekkers.
Other Significant Ascents in Peru
Other mountains in Peru were also the scene of remarkable new routes in 2025. On Santa Cruz in the Cordillera Blanca, Nathan Heald and Josue Sánchez achieved a first ascent on the south face.
On Santa Cruz Chico, the route "Directíssima Mallorquina" was also opened. Eneko and Iker Pou opened the "Kuntur" route on the northeast summit of Jurau A in the Cordillera Huayhuash.
Frequently Asked Questions about Yerupajá
How high is Yerupajá?
Yerupajá is 6,634 meters high. It is the highest peak in the Cordillera Huayhuash and the second-highest independent mountain in Peru.
Who receives the Piolet d’Or?
Bru Busom, Rubén Sanmartín, and Marc Toralles are being honored.
When did the ascent take place?
The undertaking took place from August 4 to 8, 2025. The Piolet d’Or was awarded in 2026.
What is the new route called?
The route is called "The Essence of Commitment" and follows the East Spur and East Ridge of Yerupajá.
How difficult is the route?
The approximately 1,400-meter long route is rated at 6c+, M6+, and ice pitches up to 95 degrees.
Sources
Piolets d’Or – Yerupajá Grande (6,634m), Peruvian Andes
PlanetMountain – Grande traversata in stile alpino dello Yerupajá, Perù
Image source: PlanetMountain / Marc Toralles Archive
.jpg?width=960)
