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Huanchaco

The ancient Caballitos de Totora stand ready on the beach. A big competition is set to begin the next morning.

Then flames shoot from the dry reeds. Perusina, Perusino, and Franz must save the boats and the Balsares before the wind carries the fire further.

Perusina, Perusino and Franz rescue burning Caballitos de Totora in Huanchaco

Fire over the Caballitos

Arsonists, burning reed boats, and a chase through the Totora canals: every second counts in Huanchaco.

Franz smelled the fire before anyone saw the flames.

"Totora is burning there," he said.

On Huanchaco beach, the caballitos stood close together in the sand. Their long, curved tips reached into the evening sky. A big competition was due to start the next morning. Fishermen from several coastal towns had arrived.

Franz discovers fire between the Caballitos de Totora on Huanchaco beach
A red dot glows between the dry reed boats.

Perusina turned around.

Between two Caballitos, a red dot glowed.

Then it hissed.

Flames shot from the dry reeds.

"Fire!" Perusino shouted.

The wind from the sea caught the sparks and flung them onto the next boats. Within seconds, three Caballitos were burning.

Behind the boats, a dark figure ran away.

"That was intentional!" Perusina exclaimed.


Perusina, Perusino and Franz pull Caballitos from the fire
The friends separate the intact boats from the burning ones.

She grabbed an undamaged Caballito and pulled it across the sand. Perusino braced himself against a second. Franz bit into the tether of a third.

"Why are these things so heavy?" he grumbled with a full mouth.

"Because boats rarely have feet!" Perusino gasped.

Fishermen rushed over with buckets. But the wind was faster. A burning Caballito toppled over and rolled down the beach. Directly behind it began the Balsares, the moist fields where the Totora for new boats grew.

"If the fire gets in there, they'll lose the entire harvest!" Perusina cried out.


Perusino brings a wet fishing net through the surf on a Caballito
Perusino retrieves a heavy, wet fire blanket from the surf.

Perusino pushed an undamaged Caballito into the water.

"What are you going to do?"

"Get something wet!"

He threw himself onto the reed boat and paddled through the first wave. The second broke over him. For a moment, only his hair was visible. Then he reappeared, dragging a large fishing net behind him.

"I got something wet!" he sputtered. "Me!"

Perusina helped him throw the dripping net over a burning boat. The flames disappeared under the heavy fabric.


Franz follows tracks through the Balsares of Huanchaco
Three footprints lead from the beach into the Totora fields.

Franz sniffed the ground. Between the Caballitos, he found dark drops and three different footprints.

"The arsonists ran towards the Balsares!"

He chased after them.

Perusina and Perusino followed him along a narrow path between the Totora ponds. Tall stalks brushed against their faces. Ahead of them, wood cracked.

Three men stood on a jetty. One held a torch. The others pushed a bundle of dry totora to the edge of the field.

"No one from Huanchaco will compete tomorrow," one said.


Perusina and Perusino extinguish burning Totora on a jetty
Only a narrow jetty separates the flames from the Balsares.

"You set the boats on fire!" Perusina shouted.

The men spun around.

The man with the torch threw it into the bundle of totora. Flames immediately devoured the dry stalks.

Then the three ran off.

Perusina jumped onto the jetty and pushed the burning bundle into the water with a long pole. Steam billowed up. Perusino pulled the wet net over and threw it over the remaining flames.

Franz pursued the arsonists.

They jumped into a small motorboat. The engine roared. But one of the men hadn't untied the rope. The boat circled the post once and crashed its bow into the jetty.

"Again!" Franz shouted. "That looked funny!"


The three pursue a motorboat on Caballitos through the Totora canals
The Caballitos fit into canals that are too narrow for the motorboat.

The man cut the rope. The boat shot off.

Franz jumped onto a Caballito lying at the edge of the Balsar.

"You can't drive that!" Perusino cried.

"I'll find out in a moment!"

Franz pushed off. The Caballito glided into a narrow water channel. He paddled with his front paws, spun in two circles, and then shot forward surprisingly fast.

Perusina and Perusino took a second Caballito. Together, they chased through the canals.


The motorboat gets stuck in the Balsares of Huanchaco
The fast motorboat gets caught in a trap of reeds and mud.

The arsonists' motorboat was faster, but also wider. Before a tight bend, its propellers got stuck in the totora. The engine shrieked. The boat was stuck.

The three men jumped into the shallow water and sank up to their knees in the mud.

By the time the fishermen arrived, the escape was over.

The men were from a neighboring village. Out of anger over an old dispute and fear of losing the competition, they had intended to destroy the Caballitos.


Perusina, Perusino and Franz launch into the surf with new Caballitos
The next morning, three new Caballitos carry the friends into the surf.

In the morning, enough boats still stood on the beach. Some were charred black, others only singed.

The fishermen decided to hold the competition anyway. Before the start, they placed three new Caballitos in the sand.

"For you," said an old boat builder.

Franz examined his reed boat. "Does this one have a brake?"

"No."

"Good," said Franz. "Then it can't break down, at least."

The first wave lifted the three Caballitos.

Perusina cried, "Go!"

Together, they plunged into the surf.


Story and Reality: The Caballitos, the Balsares, and the millennia-old fishing tradition are genuinely part of Huanchaco. The fire, the competition, and the arsonists are invented for this adventure.

What's in this adventure?

Caballitos de Totora are small reed boats. Depictions on ancient pottery show that people on Peru's north coast fished with similar boats many centuries ago.
The Balsares of Huanchaco are artificially created wetlands. Totora is cultivated, harvested, and dried there before boat builders tightly tie the stalks into a Caballito.
Huanchaco is considered the only place in Peru where traditional fishing with Caballitos de Totora is still regularly practiced.

Three tracks of the friends

Perusina stops the flames

She separates the boats, recognizes the danger to the Balsares, and pushes the burning Totora bundle into the water.

Perusino retrieves the sea

He ventures into the surf with a Caballito and brings the wet fishing net that smothers the flames.

Franz finds the arsonists

His nose discovers three tracks. Later, he pursues the motorboat on a Caballito through the narrow canals.

Your explorer task

Draw a rescue plan for the beach: Caballitos, sea, wind direction, and Balsares. Mark which boats must be moved first and where a wet net can stop the flames.

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Questions about Huanchaco and the Caballitos de Totora

What is a Caballito de Totora?

It is a small, pointed reed boat. The name means "Totora little horse," because the fisherman sits or kneels on it much like on a horse.

Who invented the Caballitos?

Their exact origin is unknown. However, archaeological depictions show that people of ancient cultures on Peru's north coast already sailed out to sea in reed boats.

Are the boats still used today?

Yes. Fishermen in Huanchaco continue to fish with Caballitos de Totora. Therefore, the tradition there is considered a living cultural heritage.

What are the Balsares?

The Balsares are man-made wetlands near the coast. The Totora, from which the Caballitos are built, grows in their water basins.

Did the fire from the story really happen?

No. The arson, the competition, and the chase are fictional. The boats, Totora fields, and traditional fishing really exist in Huanchaco.

Sources and further information

The factual information about Huanchaco, the Caballitos, and the Balsares is based on the following information:

  • MINCETUR: Tourism Inventory Caballitos de Totora de Trujillo
  • MINCETUR: Tourism Inventory Balsares de Huanchaco
  • Dirección Desconcentrada de Cultura La Libertad: Caballito de Totora
  • Gobierno Regional La Libertad: Protection of traditional fishing in Huanchaco
  • PeruMagazin: Huanchaco in Northern Peru